Director

Tejan Gurung 'TJ

A proven high-altitude specialist with

experience across all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks.

Tejan Gurung ' TJ

Within the climbing community, TJ is recognised as one of the most accomplished high-altitude climbers of his generation. Best known as the youngest British climber to summit all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks, he also guides extensively across the majority of the Seven Summits, bringing world-class experience from the highest mountains on every continent.

Unparalleled Achievements

TJ is one of the most accomplished high-altitude climbers of his generation. After years of operating in the extreme environments of the Himalaya and Karakoram, he became the youngest British climber to summit all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks; one of the most demanding achievements in modern mountaineering.

Well respected within the international climbing community, TJ is known for his consistency, resilience, and ability to perform at altitude on the world’s toughest mountains. His experience spans technically demanding routes above 8,000 metres, where sound judgment and endurance are critical.

In addition to his personal climbing record, TJ is a highly experienced high-altitude guide, leading clients on the majority of the Seven Summits and other iconic peaks worldwide. This combination of elite achievement and professional guiding expertise places him among a select group of climbers operating at the highest level of global mountaineering.

m:3x4 d: 3x4
Tejan Gurung Elite Exped
m:3x4 d: 3x4
Tejan Completes 14 Peaks

A Foundation Built in High-Performance Environments

TJ’s approach to high-altitude mountaineering is grounded in discipline, preparation, and performance under pressure. His early professional background developed the leadership, resilience, and decision-making skills that now underpin his work on the world’s highest mountains.

As he transitioned into full-time expedition climbing and guiding, TJ focused on efficiency at altitude, risk management, and long-term progression rather than single objectives. This methodology shaped his reputation as a calm, consistent operator in complex, high-consequence environments.

Today, that foundation informs how TJ leads teams, supports clients, and approaches expedition planning - prioritising safety, preparation, and sustainable performance at extreme altitude.

For TJ, time spent on these peaks shaped a deeper understanding of how climbers respond to altitude over extended periods. Repeated exposure to high, unforgiving environments highlighted the importance of pacing, judgement, and adaptability - insights that now influence how he approaches expedition leadership and supports others operating at extreme altitude

Role within Elite Exped

As part of the Elite Exped leadership team, TJ plays a key role in shaping expedition standards, guiding philosophy, and long-term strategy. His experience at the highest level of mountaineering informs how Elite Exped prepares climbers for extreme environments — with a focus on performance, safety, and sustainable success at altitude.

Nimsdai
Purja MBE

Former UK Special Forces Operator, the fastest person to climb all 14 x 8000ers, first winter ascent of K2, 10 x mountaineering world records, this truly is unparalleled leadership in the guiding world.

Build your skills

Our tailored approach to training will help you improve as a climber, developing the mental and physical skills you need to achieve your dreams.