Elite Exped Opens First 8,000m Summit of the 2026 Season on Annapurna I

Annapurna I, Nepal — April 18, 2026

Elite Exped has successfully opened the first 8,000-meter summit route of the 2026 Himalayan season on Annapurna I - widely regarded as one of the most dangerous 8,000-meter peaks in the world.

At 4:32 AM on April 18, Elite Exped’s rope-fixing team reached the true summit, establishing the route and marking the first confirmed 8,000-meter ascent in the Himalayas this season.

The summit was achieved by our elite team of high-altitude Sherpas:

• Sujal Gurung
• Pemba Chhewang Sherpa
• Dacchetar Sherpa
• Phura Dorji Sherpa

Operating in one of the harshest and most unpredictable environments in mountaineering, their success reflects exceptional skill, resilience, and teamwork.

Opening the Route on One of the World’s Most Dangerous Peaks

Known for its high fatality rate, avalanche risk, and complex terrain, Annapurna I remains one of the most technically demanding of all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters.

The successful fixing of ropes to the true summit is a critical achievement - not only for Elite Exped but for all climbers attempting the mountain this season. It ensures a safer and more accessible route for expeditions that follow.

Just two hours later, at 6:32 AM, additional members of the Elite Exped team reached the summit:

• Svetlana Erofeeva
• Victoria Ann Tracey (First Dane to summit Annapurna I)
• Pur Bahadur Gurung (Fixing Leader)
• Sandip Gurung
• Bikash Gurung
• Nima Sherpa

Their summits followed the successful route opening, further reinforcing the strength and coordination of the team

Leadership and Vision

Nimsdai “Nims Purja, Chairman and Founder of Elite Exped, praised the team’s efforts:

“With style. With confidence. With humility. Not with noise - with work.”

He emphasised that the work of the rope-fixing team goes beyond individual achievement — it plays a vital role in enabling the entire climbing community to safely attempt the mountain.

Setting the Stage for the 2026 Season

Opening the route on Annapurna I, one of the most dangerous peaks in the world, sets a powerful tone for the 2026 climbing season.

It reflects Elite Exped’s continued commitment to high standards, safety, and leadership in extreme mountaineering.

Want to take on one of the world’s most dangerous peaks and pursue your own Annapurna dream?

Enquire today and let’s start your journey to the top: