6000m Peaks

Ama Dablam Peak

A technical challenge
& a worthy conquest.

Ama Dablam
Expedition

At 6,812m above sea level, Ama Dablam is a long way off the highest peaks in the Himalayas, and yet climbing it is regarded as a true achievement among the mountaineering fraternity. The technical rock and ice climbing skills needed to reach the summit mean you can find Everest veterans, or people who’ve made other 8,000m summits, running into difficulty. In these circumstances, having guides who know the mountain like the back of their hands is essential.

Country

Nepal

Duration

25 days

grade

Technical 5D

Max Altitude

6812 m
22349 ft

Daily activity

Approx
4 - 7 hours

Season

Autumn

Dates Available

24 Oct - 17 Nov

Starting from

GBP £7,500

Aimed at experienced climbers, with a love of tricky, technical mountains. You must have mastered mountaineering and rock climbing skills including climbing safely in rock, glacier and snowy terrain.

What the adventure involves

An intimidatingly vertical pinnacle of rock and ice in Nepal’s Eastern Himalayas, Ama Dablam takes its name from its striking appearance. ‘Ama’ means mother, as the mountain’s long ridges are believed to look like a mother’s arms, outstretched to protect her children, while ‘Dablam’ is the name of the pendant traditionally worn by Sherpa women, a reference to the prominent hanging glacier dangling beneath the summit.

The mountain is well-known to anyone who’s made the trek to Everest base camp, as it dominates the Eastern skyline for several days of the walk. It’s also one of the most popular peaks in the Himalayas among climbers, but it’s not without its difficulties. 

Elite Exped’s Ama Dablam expedition is a 25-day round trip from Kathmandu, allowing for several weather contingency days, and plenty of time for acclimatization. While some operations establish three camps up the southwestern ridge, we prefer to use just two, avoiding the need to spend a night at the usual camp three spot, just beneath the hanging glacier. We believe this is a more efficient way to climb the peak, but perhaps more importantly, it’s also potentially safer. Camp three is not usually a danger zone, as any calving from the Dablam glacier tends to fall away from it. But in 2006, Ama wasn’t feeling so protective, and a large serac broke off her Dablam, killing several climbers in camp three.

As with all Elite Exped trips, our expedition plan for Ama Dablam has been put in place by Nimsdai and Mingma David, our Guinness World Record holding directors, whose operational experience in the Himalayas is unparalleled. Nimsdai, of course, shattered the speed record for climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks, summiting them in just over six months in 2019. Mingma David, who climbed with him on many of those peaks, became the youngest person ever to have summited all 14.

Elite Exped’s guiding team, handpicked by the pair, are not only hugely experienced mountaineers in their own right, they’re trained to the very highest levels in alpine rescue and recovery techniques. As part of our expedition planning, we ensure that we have constantly updated evacuation plans in place, and helicopters on standby in case of emergencies. If you want to try tackling a tricky peak like Ama Dablam, you could not be in safer hands.

Not only that, our team’s Nepalese heritage - and ability to straddle the divide between Western and Himalayan climbing cultures, means we can be sure that every aspect of your expedition will run like clockwork, offering you the best possible opportunity to reach the peak.

From the moment you sign up, to the summit, and safely back home again, Elite Exped’s expert team will be with you, every step of the way. 

From our clients
Jeff Evans
Mera 2017

You can trust them with the safety and satisfaction of clients. Elite was nothing less than a 10/10 in every aspect of how they executed the expedition.

Steve Davis
Manaslu 2019

Manaslu was my first 8,000er and first time with Elite. They exceeded my expectations at every level and stage. I would have no hesitation in booking with them again! Highly recommended!!!

Amy McCulloch
Aconcagua 2018

I often felt they went above and beyond to ensure we had a successful expedition. Excellent judgments throughout the expedition led us to reach the summit safely in extreme conditions. Highly recommend!

This tried and tested itinerary is informed by decades of mountaineering experience. As with all adventurous activities of this type however, circumstances may arise where Elite Exped is forced to make alterations, possibly at short notice. While making every effort to adhere to this published schedule, we kindly ask for your patience if the weather, or other naturally occurring circumstances, intervene.

Your daily schedule

  • Day 01

    Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

  • Day 02

    Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu

  • Day 03

    Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding

  • Day 04

    Trek to Namche Bazaar

  • Day 05

    Rest in Namche. We may go for acclimatisation hike.

  • Day 06

    Trek to Debuche (3700 m) via Tengbouche Monastery

  • Day 07

    Trek to Ama Dablam basecamp

  • Day 08

    Rest day at Basecamp - Acclimatisation walk

  • Day 09

    Training Day - Fixed Lines / Traverse / Summarizing the techniques

  • Day 10

    Climb to Camp 1

  • Day 11

    Get to Camp 2 and come back to Camp 1 again

  • Day 12

    Trek from Camp 1 back to base camp

  • Day 13 - 14

    Rest Day

  • Day 15

    Climb to Camp 1, rest few hours and get to camp 2

  • Day 16

    Climb to Ama Dablam Summit and back to Camp 1

  • Day 17

    Trek back to Basecamp

  • Day 18 -20

    Contingency Day

  • Day 21

    Trek to Namche Bazaar

  • Day 22

    Trek to Lukla

  • Day 23

    Fly to Kathmandy and transfer to hotel

  • Day 24

    Rest day in Kathmandu

  • Return to Home country

Fast - Track

Plenty of passion, not much time?

We understand the challenges of balancing a busy professional career with a love of mountaineering. Building on Nims record-breaking techniques, our unique Fast-Track expeditions allow you to climb more in less time. View fast-track expeditions

Training

Developing your skills to achieve a new possible

Our tailored approach to training will help you improve as a climber, developing the mental and physical skills you need to achieve your dreams. Learn more

Above + Beyond + Adventure

Practical info

Frequently asked questions

The following frequently asked questions may help answer any queries you have about Elite Exped, what this expedition involves, and what is required. If your question isn’t answered here please check our dedicated FAQ support page, otherwise don’t hesitate to get in touch.

What skillset and fitness level are required?

All Elite Exped expeditions are within extreme high altitude environments, with differing requirements for ability. Due to the nature of these operational landscapes it is essential you provide concise, honest descriptions of relevant experience and current fitness levels. Upon receipt we will review your experience and respond accordingly. At this point if we consider there to be any shortfalls, we can collectively discuss the opportunities and/or provide a training support plan to achieve your goals.

What accommodation is included?
What equipment is provided?
Will I get my own guide?

Why choose
Elite Exped?

Unparalleled
leadership

Nimsdai Purja and Mingma David Sherpa’s mountaineering world records speak for themselves, but our founders are more than just supremely-talented climbers. While some choose to direct operations from a back office, Nimsdai and Mingma David lead from the front. Their experience of every aspect of guiding and climbing - from fixing ropes, to organising logistics - is unparalleled. It’s no surprise that when they’ve worked together they have a perfect, 100 percent success rate when it comes to summiting 8,000m peaks.

Safety through
self-sufficiency

If it’s controllable we control it, this is key to attain and maintain our industry leading strategy for success and safety. We maximise our options, agility and responsiveness by running totally self-sufficient expeditions, not relying on any other teams on the mountain to achieve our objectives. We are capable of setting up our own fixed lines (with a proven track record on all 8,000m peaks) and have backups to cover all scenarios, from secondary oxygen supplies through to the ability and experience to operate our own rescue missions if the situation arises.

A unique
perspective

With his Nepalese roots, and UK residency, our co-founder Nimsdai Purja brings a unique perspective of the world of mountaineering, and an unparalleled ability to bridge the gap between Western and Himalayan climbing cultures. We can assemble trusted teams and networks anywhere in the world, but our founders’ roots are a particular advantage when it comes to summiting the world’s very highest peaks. An intimate knowledge of how things work on the ground ensures that everything runs smoothly when you’re 8,000m above sea-level.

Your adventure
Ready to take on
the challenge?
Enquire Now
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