Expedition Resources

How Hard Is Aconcagua to Climb?

Towering at a staggering 6,961 meters (22,838 feet), Aconcagua stands as a formidable sentinel and the highest peak in the world outside of the majestic Asian ranges. For mountaineers, reaching its summit is a significant ambition, a testament to endurance and resilience. While often referred to as a "non-technical" climb, Aconcagua presents a unique and serious set of challenges, primarily stemming from its extreme altitude.

This article will delve into just how hard it is to climb Aconcagua. We’ll explore what makes this giant of the Andes so demanding, so you can feel prepared for the demanding journey to the summit of the “Stone Sentinel”.

Understanding Aconcagua’s difficulty

While Aconcagua doesn't typically require intricate rope work or ice axe mastery in the same vein as other high-altitude peaks, labelling it "non-technical" tends to diminish the challenges it can present.

So, is Aconcagua hard to climb? Well, in some ways, no. Aconcagua's difficulty isn't rooted in complex climbing techniques. Instead, it stems from its extreme altitude and the harsh environmental realities that demand immense physical and mental fortitude.

High-altitudes

The most significant hurdle is undoubtedly Aconcagua’s extreme altitude. As you ascend, the atmospheric pressure decreases, leading to a drastically lower partial pressure of oxygen. This thin air forces your body to work exponentially harder for every breath, increasing the risk of altitude-related illnesses like Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) 1  — conditions that can be debilitating and even fatal. 

Furthermore, acclimatisation on Aconcagua is a critical and often underestimated challenge. The rapid ascent, combined with individual physiological differences, means that even experienced mountaineers can struggle to adapt to the thinning air.

Challenging weather conditions

Compounding the altitude are the bitterly cold temperatures and unpredictable winds that sweep across the mountain. Even on a clear day, conditions can deteriorate rapidly, exposing climbers to frostbite and hypothermia. The sheer physical exertion of climbing for multiple days in such an environment, often carrying significant weight, adds another layer of difficulty.

Comparing Aconcagua to other peaks

Understanding how Aconcagua stacks up against other mountains can be helpful for climbers looking to gauge its suitability for their experience level. 

Let's take a look at a couple of popular comparisons: 

Aconcagua vs Kilimanjaro

The most immediate difference between climbing Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak, and Aconcagua is elevation. Aconcagua is over 1,000 metres taller than Kilimanjaro. This huge height difference means climbers face much more extreme high-altitude conditions for a longer duration.

Aconcagua vs Mont Blanc

Comparing Aconcagua to Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe, reveals different sets of challenges. Mont Blanc, while lower in altitude than Aconcagua, often involves more technical climbing sections, potentially requiring the use of ropes, ice axes, and crampons, depending on the route and conditions. While altitude is still a factor on Mont Blanc, the acclimatisation process can sometimes be less demanding than on Aconcagua due to the lower overall elevation.

Comparing summit success rates

Looking at summit success rates can shed further light on Aconcagua’s difficulty level.

Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro generally sees higher success rates compared to Aconcagua, likely due to the lower altitude and often shorter expeditions. The industry average success rate for reaching the Kilimanjaro summit is around 60-80%, although Elite Exped proudly boasts a 98% climber summit rate.

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc's success rates can vary significantly depending on the route, conditions, and climber experience. On average, the success rate is said to be around 65%.

Aconcagua

As we’ve mentioned, Aconcagua's challenges don’t lie in its technical challenges. It’s high altitude and extreme weather (especially strong winds) significantly reduce the mountain’s success rate, and as a result, the industry average success rate is around 30%. Again, Elite Exped boasts a much higher success rate of 95%.

Who can climb Aconcagua?

Before you sign up to climb Aconcagua, it’s crucial to understand whether it's the right expedition for you. The chief park keeper, Daniel Cucciara, claimed that 40% of Aconcagua climbers did no preparation. This causes serious problems for rescue teams when they get into trouble.

To avoid this, consider the following:

Fitness

Having a high fitness level is crucial for a safe and successful Aconcagua summit. The climb demands excellent cardiovascular endurance, strong legs, and the ability to carry a weighted pack for multiple days at high altitude.

Mountaineering skills

While prior high-altitude mountaineering experience isn't strictly mandatory on the standard routes, a solid background in multi-day hiking, backpacking, or other strenuous endurance activities is highly recommended. Familiarity with using trekking poles and layering clothing systems is also beneficial.

Level of experience

While the magnificent peak presents daunting physical and mental challenges, its relatively straightforward technical routes make it a popular choice for climbers of all levels. Our climbers will often use this as a preparatory peak before tackling greater climbs in the Himalayas.

Key challenges and how to overcome them

Successfully navigating Aconcagua hinges on effectively addressing its primary challenges: altitude sickness and extreme weather.

Altitude sickness

Dealing with altitude sickness requires a proactive approach. Gradual ascent, allowing your body time to adapt to the thinning air, is crucial. This involves incorporating rest days into your itinerary and ascending to higher camps in a controlled manner. Recognising the early symptoms of AMS (headache, nausea, fatigue) and descending if they worsen is vital for preventing more serious conditions like HAPE and HACE.

Extreme weather

Extreme weather on Aconcagua can be unpredictable and unforgiving. Temperatures can plummet well below freezing, and strong winds can make progress incredibly difficult and dangerous. The key to overcoming this lies in being prepared with the right gear — high-quality, layered clothing, a robust tent, and appropriate protection for your extremities.

A gold-standard guide

The best way to prepare and overcome Aconcagua’s challenges is by choosing a gold-standard expedition group. At Elite Exped, our experienced guides are integral to helping you navigate the complexities of Aconcagua. Their deep understanding of the mountain, its weather patterns, and the nuances of acclimatisation provides invaluable support. Our guides bring years of experience in assessing conditions and making informed decisions about when to proceed, when to wait, and when to turn back. 

With Elite Exped, you're part of a well-supported team led by experts dedicated to helping you summit Aconcagua safely. We combine the expertise of our own world-class 8,000m guides—who bring invaluable experience from the highest peaks on Earth—with the local knowledge and mountain sense of our Argentine partners. This synergy creates the perfect balance of high-altitude mastery and on-the-ground familiarity, giving our teams the best possible chance of standing on the summit. For more details on how Elite Exped can help you summit Aconcagua safely and successfully, check out our Climb Aconcagua Package.

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