Expedition Resources

Aconcagua Routes: A Complete Guide

While often underestimated, Aconcagua presents a serious high-altitude mountaineering challenge. Unlike many other major peaks, it doesn't require technical climbing skills on its most popular routes, but the extreme altitude, brutal winds, and harsh weather conditions demand careful preparation and respect.

This guide is your essential resource for understanding the various routes to the summit of Aconcagua. We'll break down the key differences, from the less technical and more popular options to the highly demanding and advanced climbs. Whether you're an experienced mountaineer or an ambitious trekker ready for a new challenge, this guide will help you choose the right path to the roof of the Americas.

Our chosen route is the Normal Route, involving an acclimatisation trek to Plaza Francia (South Face of Aconcagua) before advancing to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp). This three-day journey ensures proper acclimatisation before the ascent.

What are the different Aconcagua routes?

The Normal Route

This is the most popular route on Aconcagua. It's considered a non-technical climb and is often referred to as a "trekking peak" as it doesn't require advanced mountaineering skills like ice climbing or fixed ropes.

The route ascends the mountain's northwest ridge from the Horcones Valley. The approach trek leads to Plaza de Mulas, which serves as the main base camp and one of the largest on the mountain. The final push to the summit is a strenuous and long day, particularly the Canaleta, a steep gully of scree and loose rock near the top.

The Polish Glacier Traverse (Vacas Valley Route)

Also known as the "False Polish" or the "360 Route," this route is slightly more challenging and longer than the Normal Route, but is also considered non-technical.

The route begins in the Vacas Valley on the east side of the mountain and heads to the Plaza Argentina base camp. It traverses beneath the Polish Glacier before joining the Normal Route near the summit. The descent is typically made via the Normal Route, allowing climbers to experience both sides of the mountain.

The Polish Glacier Direct Route

Unlike the two trekking routes, the Polish Glacier Direct Route is a serious technical ascent that requires experience in snow and ice climbing. It follows the same approach as the Polish Glacier Traverse, but instead of traversing around the glacier, it ascends directly up its face.

This route is typically only undertaken by experienced mountaineers and is much less crowded than the other two routes. It's considered an excellent training ground for climbers preparing for expeditions on more demanding peaks.

The average duration of each route

The duration of an Aconcagua expedition varies significantly depending on the route chosen and the specific itinerary of the guiding company. Most itineraries also include dedicated days for acclimatisation to the high altitude, which is crucial for safety and summit success. Here’s a rough breakdown of how long each route takes on average:

・The Normal Route typically takes around 18 to 20 days to complete. This includes travel to and from Mendoza, the trek to base camp at Plaza de Mulas, multiple days for acclimatisation, and the summit push. Some more aggressive expeditions can be completed in as little as 12 to 14 days, but these require prior acclimatisation and are generally not recommended for most climbers.
・The Polish Glacier Traverse is slightly longer than the Normal Route. Expeditions on this route usually last 17 to 20 days. It involves a trek through the scenic Vacas Valley to a separate base camp at Plaza Argentina before traversing to join the Normal Route for the final ascent.
・The Polish Glacier Route is generally longer, lasting around 19 to 22 days. It requires advanced climbing skills and includes time for technical sections on the glacier, which often necessitates extra contingency days for weather.

Success rates and route difficulty

Elite Exped is proud of its 95% climber summit rate, which is much higher than the average. In fact, the average success rate is as low as 30%. While it’s not the most technical climb, many climbers underestimate the extreme altitude, brutal weather, and the sheer physical effort required.

The Normal Route is considered the easiest and most popular route, making up roughly 54% of ascents. It is a non-technical "trekking" route, meaning it doesn't require ropes or technical climbing skills. However, climbers still need to be in excellent physical condition to handle the strenuous, multi-week expedition.

The Polish Glacier Traverse accounts for about 43% of all climbs. It's considered slightly more difficult and physically demanding than the Normal Route due to its longer distance. While it's also non-technical, a few sections may require the use of crampons for hard snow or ice.

The remaining 3% of climbers take on highly technical routes, such as the Polish Glacier Route. This expedition is extremely difficult and dangerous, requiring advanced mountaineering and ice climbing skills, and should only be attempted by highly experienced climbers.

Why Elite Exped takes the Normal Route

Elite Exped chooses to guide climbers on the Normal Route for a strategic combination of safety, high success rates, and a world-class experience. Our decision is rooted in our core philosophy of ensuring our clients can test their limits in the safest and most supportive environment possible.

This route’s relative accessibility allows our meticulously crafted 19-day itinerary to be executed with greater predictability. Our schedule, based on the proven strategy of Elite Exped’s leadership team, incorporates additional rest and acclimatisation days to optimise your body’s preparation for high altitude.

Our South American guides, who bring decades of experience in the Andes, are not just experts on the mountain; they are extensively trained in high-altitude rescues. We maintain a low 1:4 guide-to-client ratio, with additional standby guides to ensure a rapid response in any emergency. Furthermore, our comprehensive evacuation plans include helicopter support, offering the ultimate reassurance as you embark on this incredible journey.

For more details on how Elite Exped can help you summit Aconcagua safely and successfully, check out our Aconcagua Expedition package.

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