8000m Peaks

Lhotse

A challenging alternative
to Everest.

Lhotse
Expedition

Those outside the mountaineering world often overlook Lhotse, such is the fame of its nearest neighbour. But the world’s fourth-highest mountain has become increasingly popular with climbers looking for a less-crowded - and arguably more challenging - alternative to Everest. With its distinctive, dramatic south face rising a near-vertical 3,200m from the glacier below, this 8,516m peak presents significant challenges for serious mountaineers.

Country

Nepal

Duration

52 days

grade

Technical 5E

Max Altitude

8516 m
27940 ft

Daily activity

Approx
4 - 7 hours

Season

Spring &
Summer

Dates Available

05 Apr - 02 Jun

Starting from

GBP £21,600

Climbers joining the Lhotse expedition must have successfully summited at least one 7,000m peak. You must be a competent mountaineer, able to climb safely in moderate rock, glacier and snowy terrain.

The spectacular and dominating 8000m peak

Located on the border between Tibet and Nepal, Lhotse is sometimes mistakenly identified as the south peak of Everest. But this mountain represents a worthy challenge in its own right - and indeed, some climbers claim that the final section - through a narrow, 150m gulley - makes this a trickier, more technical climb than Mount Everest itself. 

While Lhotse perhaps requires more advanced rock climbing skills than its more famous neighbour, it is physically less demanding. However, this is still a hugely significant peak, and one that demands to be treated with the utmost respect.

Elite Exped’s Lhotse expedition is based on the expedition plans used for successful summit attempts by our founders, Nimsdai and Mingma David. It follows the standard route up the peak, climbing the Geneva Spur on the South Face. From here, when the crowds climbing Everest head left, we go right - up the steep face and towards the summit. We plan in 52 days for the entire expedition, which leaves us plenty of time for rest days, and a proper acclimatization period, as well as a lengthy climbing window.

Elite Exped’s hugely-experienced guiding team have summited Lhotse multiple times between them, and set various speed records for reaching the dual summits of Everest and Lhotse together. This means they have an intimate knowledge of every step of this route, so you can rest assured your summit bid is in the very safest set of hands. As well as being highly-skilled mountaineers, our guides have extensive experience of conducting high-altitude rescue operations. We have evacuation plans and accessible helicopter rescue in place for emergencies.

Our team’s Himalayan heritage and ability to bridge the gap between Western and Nepalese climbing cultures means that we’re involved in every detail of planning and logistics. From basics like transporting food, to fixing ropes, we control the controllable to ensure that your expedition experience is as smooth as possible. Elite Exped’s experts are with you every step of the way - from the moment you sign up, to the summit, and safely home again. 

From our clients
Jeff Evans
Mera 2017

You can trust them with the safety and satisfaction of clients. Elite was nothing less than a 10/10 in every aspect of how they executed the expedition.

Steve Davis
Manaslu 2019

Manaslu was my first 8,000er and first time with Elite. They exceeded my expectations at every level and stage.  I would have no hesitation in booking with them again! Highly recommended!!!

Amy McCulloch
Aconcagua 2018

I often felt they went above and beyond to ensure we had a successful expedition. Excellent judgments throughout the expedition led us to reach the summit safely in extreme conditions. Highly recommend!

This tried and tested itinerary is informed by decades of mountaineering experience. As with all adventurous activities of this type however, circumstances may arise where Elite Exped is forced to make alterations, possibly at short notice. While making every effort to adhere to this published schedule, we kindly ask for your patience if the weather, or other naturally occurring circumstances, intervene.

Your daily schedule

  • Day 01

    Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

  • Day 02

    Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu

  • Day 03

    Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding (Overnight stay at Phakding)

  • Day 04

    Trek to Namche Bazaar and spent the night there.

  • Day 05

    Rest in Namche Bazaar. We may go for hike to Everest point of view/ Acclimatization.

  • Day 06

    Trek to Debuche via Tengboche Monastery

  • Day 07

    Trek to Dingboche

  • Day 08

    Acclimatize day in Dingbouche, Short hike to Nagarjun Hill

  • Day 09

    Trek to Lobuche

  • Day 10

    Trek to Everest base camp

  • Day 11-45

    Lhotse climbing Period

  • Day 46

    Clearing up base camp

  • Day 47

    Trek back to Pheriche

  • Day 48

    Trek back to Namche

  • Day 49

    Trek back to Lukla

  • Day 50

    Back to Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel/dinner

  • Day 51

    Free day in Kathmandu

  • Day 52

    Depart to the home country

Training

Build your skills

Our tailored approach to training will help you improve as a climber, developing the mental and physical skills you need to achieve your dreams. Learn more

Environment

Protecting our mountains

We believe the mountains are there for all to enjoy, but must be respected, and protected. We are the voice, carers and keepers of these sacred places for future generations. Our environmental policy ensures we do no harm, and leave no trace. Learn more

Above + Beyond + Adventure

Practical info

Frequently asked questions

The following frequently asked questions may help answer any queries you have about Elite Exped, what this expedition involves, and what is required. If your question isn’t answered here please check our dedicated FAQ support page, otherwise don’t hesitate to get in touch.

What skillset and fitness level are required?

All Elite Exped expeditions are within extreme high altitude environments, with differing requirements for ability. Due to the nature of these operational landscapes, it is essential you provide concise, honest descriptions of relevant experience and current fitness levels. Upon receipt, we will review your experience and respond accordingly. At this point if we consider there to be any shortfalls, we can collectively discuss the opportunities and/or provide a training support plan to achieve your goals.

What accommodation is included?
What equipment is provided?
Will I get my own guide?

Why choose
Elite Exped?

Unparalleled
leadership

Nimsdai Purja and Mingma David Sherpa’s mountaineering world records speak for themselves, but our founders are more than just supremely-talented climbers. While some choose to direct operations from a back office, Nimsdai and Mingma David lead from the front. Their experience of every aspect of guiding and climbing - from fixing ropes, to organising logistics - is unparalleled. It’s no surprise that when they’ve worked together they have a perfect, 100 percent success rate when it comes to summiting 8,000m peaks.

Safety through
self-sufficiency

If it’s controllable we control it, this is key to attain and maintain our industry leading strategy for success and safety. We maximise our options, agility and responsiveness by running totally self-sufficient expeditions, not relying on any other teams on the mountain to achieve our objectives. We are capable of setting up our own fixed lines (with a proven track record on all 8,000m peaks) and have backups to cover all scenarios, from secondary oxygen supplies through to the ability and experience to operate our own rescue missions if the situation arises.

A unique
perspective

With his Nepalese roots, and UK residency, our co-founder Nimsdai Purja brings a unique perspective of the world of mountaineering, and an unparalleled ability to bridge the gap between Western and Himalayan climbing cultures. We can assemble trusted teams and networks anywhere in the world, but our founders’ roots are a particular advantage when it comes to summiting the world’s very highest peaks. An intimate knowledge of how things work on the ground ensures that everything runs smoothly when you’re 8,000m above sea-level.

Your adventure
Ready to take on
the challenge?
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